C2 Coupe Windshield Replace

 

Windshield was original to the car with LOF markings AS-1 & IG (June 1964) non-tinted and had 43 year old patina along with many chips that were to deep to buff out. After much research I decide to tackle the job myself and here is what I did to replace windshield in 1965 Corvette Coupe. It should be noted that this was my 1st attempt at replacing windshield in C2 and all info gathered here may or may not be the easiest or correct way of doing thing so use caution. While many aspects are the same this is for a Coupe not Convertible. Some convert owners suggest installing the lower trim piece prior to installing glass but that is not an option on a coupe.

Purchase locally:

New Pilkington brand tinted NON-LOF locally for $100.18 including tax
3M Automotive Bedding & Glazing Sealant #8509
CRL Black 777 Butyl Rubber Sealant

Also got the following from Paragon Reproductions:

4271 W/S coupe Weatherstrip
11044k-25 W/S Reveal Retainers (Clips) kit
119K-27 W/S Mldg Clip screws

Removal is all about the TRIM which unless yours is so bad and you have new waiting to go on you will need to get familiar with design, tools and take you time. Once you get the hang of using trim removal tool (jiggler) each clip get easier to locate and release. I took pictures of the molding, clips and tool usage below and at the bottom of page a short video which all should be helpful. After moldings are remove, at least in my case, was many years of bubba molding installation and leak control revealed itself. There was various types of caulking, glues and silicone that would end up taking few hours to completely clean up. Next I used lots of blue painters tape around the complete windshield to avoid scratching. Before I started clean up I still needed to remove glass and all I did was cut the old rubber weather stripping with a utility knife. Once the rubber was cut away it was just a matter of pushing from the inside and the glass popped loose and with the help of my wife we lifted it off. Then I remove the rest of the rubber weather stripping.

No clean up yet...I then got inside and remove steering wheel for easy of access, sun visors, rearview mirror and inside trim around windshield. Now you can again use blue painters tape to tape top of dash to avoid dirt and crap for going down your defroster vent and getting all over dash and speaker grill. Now is the time to remove the old molding clips, 23 plus 2 for the corners. All but 1 of mine came out easy and the 1 needed some penetrating oil and good tap with a hammer. Using solvents (goo-gone and carb cleaner) and plastic scrapers I slowly remove all the old sealants and glue from around around the windshield frame. This exposed a couple of things (1) some of the 43+ year old sealant the is between the birdcage and fiberglass was missing (2) on drivers side a series of rusted through pin holes in the window frame. Both of these are definitely causes for leaking. Now my main concern was the rust and after further checking the window frame (birdcage) is solid and the damage was a few very small holes. To fix I drilled them out (1/8" bit) to remove all rust applied rust inhibitor and fill in with 2 part epoxy. For the missing sealant I dug out as much as I could around the missing area and using the 3M 8509 filled in all missing sealant.  About 4-5 hours invested so far.

Now off to the basement with trim in hand for a buffing/polishing. As with frame above had years of crap to cleanup only I used a very sharp wood chisel on the back side of the trim along with the solvents making the job much easier, left scratches on back but much faster and easier. On a scale of 1-10 my trim is probably an 7 1/2 as there are a few hair wide scratches that can't be buffed out. I was able, using a couple of buffing rouges to bring all pieces back the a brilliant shine. NOTE: Buffing Trim - if you are not use to buffing, starting with you valuable trim is not a good place to learn.  Another 2+ hours.

Next day back in the garage...Installed all 23 clips plus the two corner clips and ready for glass install. Friend couldn't make it today but hopefully tomorrow to help set glass in.

Prepping for install included attaching weather strip to glass which to get started would be easier if you have 3 hands but once started very easy, just make sure you have windshield channel groove toward the inside. Next place 3/16 nylon cord (~13 1/2 feet) in windshield channel to birdcage groove. Start at top center and work both directions ending up bottom center. Tape ends of cord on inside of glass to keep out of way for now. Lay down a bead of 3M Automotive Bedding & Glazing Sealant around window channel close to the edge of the pinch weld. A thin bead should be find I found out after applying way to much which makes for a messy clean up. Next some lubricant is need to assist in ease of pulling cord and rubber slipping over birdcage. I used GOOP, the hand cleaner, which worked great. Other have use various lubricants including dish soap and petroleum jelly. Apply in groove with the cord. Now with the help of a friend set windshield assembly in place insuring equal spacing top-bottom and side-to-side. While one presses on glass from outside the other can start pulling cord slowly. As cord is pulled the rubber will slip over the birdcage pinch weld J Work pulling both ends of the cord until glass is complete in. A cotter pin tool also helps in the corners. Double check that glass is still centered. I stopped at this point to clean up the BIG mess I caused by applying to much sealant. I remove all the blue tape and clean inside of windshield a couple of times. I then put the inside of car back together (molding, mirror, sun visors, etc).

I put new clean blue tape on and then used butyl rubber sealant between glass and rubber. ** NOTE ** very messy stuff. Finished up with the 3m 8509 Glazing filling the gap between the weather strip and the body. Here I forced LOTS of sealant into the gap to insure no air pockets then went around with a small wood stick and made sure that around all the clips were covered also. Here were things went downhill & messy L It appeared that the rubber was thicker the the original which plays heck with the trim. I literally put trim on/off 10 times, each time getting black glazing all over everything. Finally gave up and let trim fit best I could. Remember I had new clips and pre-fit the trim without the rubber seal and it fit OK. Next day I did leak test and it failed L I had messed with the trim/glazing so much it wasn't sealed correctly so off with the trim again. More glazing and reinstalled the trim and another leak test. Finally done but trim not flush in a few spots. That's a problem for another day.

Professional glass installers claim this job is about 1 hour 2 max BUT I'm retired and very careful and slow. Plus their not fixing problems, replacing clips and buffing trim.

** Click on images for larger view **

The Glass

Pilkington Glass Old vs: New Thickness Compare

The Tools

Trim Removal Tool Sealants Various Tools Used

The Install
 

Windshield Weather Strip

Reveal Molding Retainers

Reveal Molding Retainers

Clip on Molding
Tool Engaging Clip Example Tool Engaging Clip Example Tool Engaging Clip Example Tool Engaging Clip Example
 
Molding Released GLUED ON MESS Use Utility Knife to Cut Rubber Coupe Trim Removed
Before Cleaning Soak and Scrape After Cleaning After Polishing
Clips Installed Clips Installed Test fitting of Trim Test fitting of Trim
Weather Striping getting some Sun W/S attached to glass Cord on W/S and taped Ready to pull cords
Ready to pull cords Glass installed Glass Installed - cleaned up Glass Installed - cleaned up  
     
Done      

 

Click play button to view video ==>

 

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