200-4R Transmission

1966 Corvette Coupe Install

 

Conversion from PowerGlide to 200-4R.

Hope this will give you ideas and possible help.

Decided to switch from PowerGlide to 200-4R from a drivability point of view.  Nothing to do with gas mileage or other factors. Found and purchased a rebuilt transmission referred to as Stage 1 not for racing just stronger guts or so I was told. 1800-2000 stall converter.

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** Notes **
I have read many comments on 200-4R install in C2 Vette. Some claim there is no need to jack/move engine while others claim you must. The service manual states you can remove/install powerglide without jack/move engine. I totally agree -- removed PG by following service manual. However, the 200-4r while the length is same the rest of the transmission is bigger in all respects. The main problem is the short stubby tail shaft. You can NOT (I repeat NOT) push 200 far enough back to get tranny in. We had Vette on lift and using a transmission jack we determined that about 3 inches was needed. We attempted to twist, remove flex plate and any way we tried NO GO. I have to assume those in the "NO NEED CAMP" have not installed with body on and made the assumption that length is the deciding factor. After removing motor mount bolts and jacking engine up and forward about 3" we were just barely able to install. I had already install blocks to correct body sag so there was no room to spare.

One other item...others have discussed the cantilever mount putting a strain on the transmission boss. While a strain  I don't believe there is that much to worry about. And if mount should fail the transmission on has about 1/4" to fall and rest on the crossmember. Forum member R67T (Bob) has similar mount with 30,000+ miles and about 10 years on his with no problems.

One more...I had to remove E-Brake to install rear mount. Others may find a way to keep. On '67 I believe it can be kept due to different design. My E-Brake with all NEW parts from handle to back rotors looked great BUT there was no brake shoes so system ended at the end of the cables. I removed everything but the handle.

On with the install J

I took many pics and as they say "a picture is worth a thousand words" so I won't go on and on just follow the steps in the pics below. Did all the work on a 4 post lift (2 post would be better) and had a transmission jack and Pro_Jack that fits on my lift which really helped with lifting motor up/down many times. Used lift as a hoist to get tran(s) on/off tran jack.

#1 item and what I believe is most important make a template as soon as you remove drive shaft and prior to loosing any thing else. I use an old piece of cardboard but it worked out just fine -- sat on top of crossmember, butted it up to side of tunnel and push up tight to shaft (see pics) later on I had to make copy out of aluminum to straddle new mount.

The rear mount is what most are probably interested in and it deserved it own page. You can find link below in the pics.

Used original PG transmission cooling lines just needed a little tweaking and one 45° 1/4 NPT to 1/4 NPT fitting for lower line.

Need flexible transmission dip stick, TV Cable and brackets.

I used Shiftworks shifter. Originally purchased their C2 kit which was a universal kit. I followed their YouTube video to the "T" and it did not work. After many hours making my own brackets I got it to work somewhat but I was not happy. While discussing the install/shifter with R67T (Bob) I logged onto their web site prior to calling them about the NONE-FIT and guess what??? They had a "NEW" C2 shifter product. I called an explained my displeasure and they (Herb) said he would send me the new version no questions ask. I received a few days later and "WOW" it looks exactly like to original PG shifter. You can even use the original rubber boot and has Neutral Safety and Back up light wiring. The install was fairly simple just a little tweaking of the arms and rods. Bolts in using original holes. I highly recommend. They also have a perfect fit console gear indicator that make the job look it came from the factory.

After suggestion from R67T and encouragement from others I purchased Comp-U-Shift Mini which is an electronic controller for the torque converter clutch lockup. Nice little item...Easy to understand instruction and install. Only fault I found (minor) is the wiring harness's could have better design..Having to cut an 1  1/4" hole to pass a few wires through when a small connector in the middle could cut that down to 3/4" or less.

Exhaust was another small problem. My car has Sanderson Shorty headers with 2 1/2" collector and 2 1/2" Stainless pipes front to back (overkill for a 327/300) but it was in the car when I purchased. They needed a few taps with BIG hammer in a couple of spots. I think stock 2" would be ok. Sidepipes would have no problems.

This is not the easiest project I have encountered...many 2 steps forward and 1 back. But in the end it is worth it to me. Some of the Trial & Error items we needed to overcome.
Lift/move engine forward.
Cooler Lines.
Shifter (original Shiftworks).
Rear Mount.
Exhaust.

I'm sure I forgot/left something out but above is the main items that I experienced.

 

Click on images for larger view

As arrived
Unpacking
#1 after removing driveshaft
"MAKE A TEMPLATE"
Lift & Transmission
Jack to Remove
Lift to get off of Jack
New vs Old
Tail Shaft Compare
Dual Bolt Pattern Ears
Need Removing
Sawzall & Grinder
to remove
E-Brake in the way
Sawzall & Grinder
to remove
Transmission pan will
hit if not removed
Rear Mount needs it's own page
=== Click Here ==>
   
Transmission Cooler Lines
Shifter Plate
Shifter Plate

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